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THE HISTORY

PIA MARIANI AND THE UNIVERSE
OF HER JEWELLERY

THE HISTORY

PIA MARIANI AND THE UNIVERSE
OF HER JEWELLERY

The all-encompassing charm of Pia Mariani vanquishes whoever encounters her: it is a charm that radiates from a background steeped in ancient nobility that becomes innovative and contemporary under her influence.

First of all, that of Renaissance goldsmith masters and the splendour of their creations at the origin of Milanese excellence.
And even further back, her charm harks back to the colours of the Molise skies, of centuries of history tied to when the Norman adventurer, Robert Guiscard, conquered southern Italy and Sicily, when the breadth of the wide horizons between the municipalities of Larino and Ururi were woven with the essential and cosmopolitan wisdom of Benedictine monks. Ururi, in the Arbërëshe dialect, means aurora (dawn), and was the name of an ancient monastic site that later became a small town in the Molise region, in the heart of Central Italy, the treasure chest of all art of the Renaissance.

Pia Mariani was born in Ururi (Aurora) where she took her first steps, breathing in the broad, gentle horizons of those hills in Molise, absorbing the magic light of those skies and the warm glow of the golden fields of grain, falling in love with its coasts and living for some time in the atmosphere of the ancient popular harp-like melodies at dusk, to the notes of a guitar around the camp-fire. When her family moved to Milan, Pia Mariani found the best possible surroundings to achieve her freedom of expression and hone her creative vocation.

A graduate of the Brera Academy of Fine Arts in Milan, Pia Mariani was highly commended for her painting, thus underscoring her unquestionable artistic talent.

She immediately began working In Milan as a designer for fashion, textiles and posters.

From 1980 to 1985, Pia actually worked as a model for famous fashion houses such as Pims, Soprani, Callaghan and Versace.

And in Milan, Pia Mariani began to work closely with selected craftsmen and goldsmiths to study in detail micro-sculpture and techniques for creating precious objects, both as unique pieces as well as in a series.

Each piece is unique, exuding the exotic charm of distant worlds, as inaccessible as a harem, elusive like the galloping horses of nomads of the steppes. Their grace is reminiscent of the collective imagination of possible lands from the East, carrying within the mystery of a woman’s world, deeply intimate, hidden behind the curtain of tents in deserts, impenetrable as women’s hearts.

timeline

  • Of the first jewellery pieces produced by Pia Mariani, the Mappamondo is a sophisticated creation that elegantly and magically changes and transforms itself: it becomes a world that, with optimism and confidence, opens up to the future of mankind.

    An emblem of the Italian goldsmith’s art.

    Created in 1994, the Mappamondo is a pendant made of gold (representing the continents) set with interchangeable diamonds and gemstones (representing the oceans) that transform their colour: from aquamarine to turquoise, from coral to lapis lazuli, from rock crystal to amber. Finally the innovation: a mechanism, along the equator, that opens and closes the globe of the Earth’s land surfaces, delicately structured!

    The theme of the Earth, the planets and the stars becomes a continuous source of inspiration for a line of unique and recognisable Pia Mariani signature creations.

  • The Gold Revolutions received top awards from specialised industry publications and from important fashion magazines, finally achieving the exclusive presentation of her work at a “Made in Italy” event held at Via Sant’Andrea in Milan.

  • Original variations were also conceived for Pisa Orologeria such as the necklace called Secolo made half in gold and half with a string of pearls, which becomes bracelets. Iris is a set (necklace and earrings) with flowers that gently rest on the pearl. Like this as with other jewels, pendants and earrings, they are diversions made of pearls that are characterised by their delicacy.

    For Pia Mariani pearls are not only an element of ornamental luxuriance, but they express their glossy singularity in a new way.

  • An extraordinary creative collaboration: by applying her innovative skill to decorating classic Fabergé Eggs and Flowers, Pia Mariani contributed to staking the brand’s claim in Italy as well.

  • And again Croce Danzante (Dancing Cross) embellished by stones, which rotates on itself, changing the design’s perception to accentuate a different light and a different colour at all times. Stagioni (Seasons) is a line of necklaces with pendants, earrings with variable “sizes” and changeable colours such as with the different hours in a day and the natural seasons.

    And then, particularly suggestive is the Quadrifogli (Four-Leaf Clover) necklace, as a tribute to the renowned Italian writer Fernanda Pivano, in natural green tourmaline stones.

    And finally the ring Diamanti (Diamonds) in platinum, the rarest, purest and most seductive of metals, entitled using the plural because it generously boasts over 50 diamonds – amounting to 6 carats – cut in elongated rectangles that have made baguette diamonds famous throughout the world.

  • By this time, her many metamorphosised creations reveal her exalted mastery of the universe of the jewel, even though, with a touch of delicate romanticism, Pia Mariani continued to retain a special affection for her first jewels, such as the set called Spicchi d’Arancia (Orange Wedges) made in gold with diamonds or rubies with interchangeable amber, the product of a singular chromatic quest into the precious world of amber and of nature.

  • An age-old topic that for the first time is interpreted with an open and pluralistic spirit. Religioni is a set that expresses the dignity of the four main faiths, from which their symbols are gathered and placed around a white gold cuff: the Christian cross, the Islamic crescent, the Jewish star and the Taoist Yin-Yang symbol. Within the vitality that characterises Pia’s style, symbols can move, rotate, and move closer to one another, inspiring a universal value of tolerance. The mobile interplay of symbols is proposed in the necklace and pendants and even in the ring, which keeps them hooked, allowing then to be worn with ease.

    La Fede Che Vuoi (The Wedding Band of Your Dreams), is the line of rings intended for brides and grooms, as well as the wedding band duo called Forever Young.

    Nevertheless religious inspiration quickly takes the place of romantic sensibility. And Pia conceived the luminous vigour of Stelle di Neve (Snow Stars), a delicate and sparkling cascade of precious diamonds. An innovative gem due to the originality of the idea with its movable structure: the pendant earrings and “pendentif” choker are seen by the beholder as a profusion of stars made of the purest platinum cascading in clusters, brightened by white diamond briolettes. This is how Pia Mariani interpreted the theme of total white inaugurated with the Fiera di Vicenza 2005 by PGI that would commence soon after a long collaboration with Pia Mariani. The jewel exists on an entirely linked, multiple-element, invisible structure that supports suspended stars: unique pieces made by hand.

  • It is from this position that Pia Mariani began a new chapter, by successfully becoming part of Milan’s whirlwind expansion into a city-world and of its capacity to attract new streams of treasured global customers.

    The world of luxury – from Asia to Saudi Arabia, from immense Russia to Canada and America – entered a room.

    And from there, from the shop in Via Verri, from the showroom of Pia Mariani, ideas and suggestions, creations that evoke the myths and legends of sea and of land, set off for the world.

    This new chapter was also made of travels that intertwined and led far away, explorations rich with exotic emotions.

  • On the subtle boundary between dream and reality, the irresistible magnetism of seduction takes shape and finesse on jewellery like Sirene (Mermaids), a variation of three jewels that achieve heights of sublime purity and sensuality: a delightful little mermaid sitting languidly on a pearl, a second who is meditating while seated in a yoga position on top of a larger pearl and a third stylish and dynamic who is amusing herself while playing with several pearls.

    The jewels’ gold fish scales, delicately engraved by hand, are adorned with diamonds. The pearls come from the South Seas (Australia) and Tahiti. The collection comes in more shades of gold and pearl to give each Sirene her own personality.

    The song of the Sirene, emblem of marine mythology, responds to the intense charm of an Earth-bound legend: following the mysteries hidden behind the curtain of tents in distant deserts, the creative process of Pia Mariani arrives at Sheherazade.

    Can the delicate weave of real cotton lace be turned into gold fabric? Thanks to the determination of Pia and to her constant work alongside outstanding master goldsmiths, the hidden dream of ancient alchemists became reality. And after thirteen months of laboratory processing Pia Mariani conceived the Sheherazade jewellery collection.

    The collection is inspired by an exotic female world, deeply intimate and veiled in mystery, which harks back to our illusion of possible lands from the East.

    It includes the highly acclaimed cuff-shaped bracelets with delicate-coloured stones; and then rings, earrings, Cuori (hearts) to be worn around the neck, a new necklace with diamonds, the highlight of  the collection, and several other jewellery pieces, all conceived from the special, unique and exclusive process, developed by Pia Mariani, that allows for transforming gold into the most delicate lace textures. The creations of Sheherazade produced in very delicate lace are set off against the Fahrenheit collection that incorporates the same range of jewellery, but worked in gold sheets of absolute lustre to become almost spatial, such as the Fahrenheit cuff accompanied by a precious gem in aquamarine mounted on its surface.

    In such a way, jewels also become fashion: during the fashion shows, Pia presented her jewels along with Raffaella Curiel’s clothes in a memorable fashion show at the prestigious National Museum of Science and Technology in Milan.

  • For this reason Pia Mariani, in 2008, was also appointed as a member of Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Her joining this leading institution in this important economic category represented an acknowledgement for her endeavour and called attention to one of her main driving forces: the Jewel is Fashion!

    Also in 2008, to complete her showroom’s participation in the festivities of Fashion Week, Pia Mariani presented, together with Sheherazade, a second collection targeting a more trendy clientele with a young and fresh jewel, the product of an idea as simple as it is ingenious: a circle on top and two wings placed at each side turn a five-pointed star into a flying angel. Its name is precisely Gabriel: the Archangel of the Annunciation, and harbinger of innovation, of communication.

    Although the primary model is a pendant, Pia freed her imagination, creating bracelets and necklaces with many Gabriels in a circle; the trompe-l’oeil earrings, containing an optical illusion; the Perla Cometa, mono-earring in platinum and with a Tahitian pearl; small Charms that form another bracelet. But the most fantastic invention is the characters: the motorcyclist, the photographer, the samurai, and the football player … the first in the Gabriel series from which many other amazing representations will follow.

    Finally at her event, Pia Mariani also showcased the necklace Magica, her creation in platinum and diamonds, chosen by the Platinum Guild International from the projects of other important European designers for the 2008 campaign in Japan that featured the beautiful model Chie Kumazawa.

  • Only two jewels were the protagonists at the campaign. The first was a 127 centimetre-long chain, with two large stars indicating the beginning and the end of the jewel, designed with a long road in mind – the life of a woman – with circles and stars marking the milestones along the way. This is also a jewel that is able to transform itself to form a different necklace every time it is worn.

    The second necklace Fiori di Luna (Moon Flowers) is also inspired by femininity, through symbolic elements such as the moon and flowers, and an ethereal story that binds them together: beautiful cherry blossoms that fly away in the spring breeze, higher and higher until they reach the moon, which make them become – as they get gradually closer – even brighter, up to where the platinum-coloured moon embraces them …

    And since then, there is Fiori di Luna, transformed by Pia into another magnificent necklace.

  • The first collection, Change, represents a structural change, perhaps revolutionary, in the way of imagining the jewel. For the first time, thanks to a daring technique, different qualities of gold – white gold and pure gold – overlap and unite, they blend together to become pictorial combinations, which hark back to watercolour technique never tested in jewellery. Inspired by Impressionism, the collection bears the names of the great French Impressionists (Monet, Matisse) and the painters of the Vienna Secession (Klimt)

    The Five ring, the showpiece of the second line is conversely revolutionary because it is the first that can be worn in several ways: five ways, as the name implies, to become different and unpredictable every time.

  • And so in this auspicious period, Pia Mariani’s jewels, after receiving unquestionable success, were simultaneously distributed exclusively, not only in Asia, but also in the United States and in Canada

    In 2011, for the second time, Pia Mariani participated with her collections in the Couture Show in Las Vegas, one of the most important events in the world of jewellery.

  • Her trip to Canada, discovering Le Cirque du Soleil and her admiration for Gay Lalibertè’s work, the cultural attraction of some descendants from American Indians, had a strong influence on Pia’s inspiration. A line of jewellery was conceived soon after to render homage to that intense and emotional experience, which she called Totem, comprising creations that are still evolving with earrings, pendants and other jewels with gemstones.

  • The men’s jewel is the letter “J” in gold and pink, essential and elegant (with a touch of romance).

    It is at this time that Pia pursued creating the wellness jewellery lines called Aloe.

  • This world event could not do without Pia Mariani’s tribute. She dedicated an attractive and precious interpretation of the name EXPO, obtained by substituting two of her successful jewellery pieces for 2 of the four letters: a version of Gabriel for the X and the famous Mappamondo for the O.

  • The Sheherazade collection was the protagonist of the advertising campaign in Vogue Italy; introducing the Pia Mariani label, the campaign highlighted the designer’s personal commitment to her creations and the permanence of their value over time.

    And precisely the value of her jewellery, true custom works of art, are also demonstrated by her refined clientele, both Italian and foreign, who continue to be fascinated and loyal over time.

    Twelve years of intense and invaluable work in which Pia Mariani has been fortunate to partner with valued professionals: photographers, graphic designers, copywriters and obviously goldsmiths, with whom she has reached an enviable visibility in the universe of jewellery and with whom she has been able to capture the interest of the international jet set.

    A unique and exemplary experience that now brings Pia Mariani to confidently contend, with the new challenges of global society.

  • In recent years the transformations have been immense and with an unimaginable speed.

    Optimism, determination and creative well-being have encouraged Pia Mariani to appear directly before her customers and to reach her admirers across the internet. Pia Mariani tackles the great sea of the internet to consign her jewellery to the world: everyone may now buy them from any remote corner of the Earth.

    Pia Mariani offers her creations to everyone through on-line sales, although her on-line boutique will be deeply rooted in the historic and very authentic centre of Milan, also known as the Cinque Vie from where the once future glory of the antique Roman city spread and which now houses Pia’s newly renovated atelier.

  • At 9 pm on April 21st in front of the most loyal customers, admirers and supervips of an exclusive list of guests.
    And to make the jewels of her creativity more usable in every corner of the world, Pia Mariani launches her online boutique.
    Thanks to her optimism and her creative happiness, Pia Mariani offers all her creations through online sales, but her online boutique will maintain its deep roots in the ancient heart of the most authentic Milan, those Five Ways that today host the renewed Pia atelier.

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